Wood Glue Showdown: Titebond vs Gorilla vs Elmer’s
I’ve used all three in the shop for years. Here’s what actually matters when you’re staring at the glue aisle.
Titebond
This is what most professionals use, and for good reason.
Original (I): Indoor furniture, cabinets, general shop work. Not water resistant but bonds great, sands well, cleans up easy. This is my go-to for 80% of projects.
II (Premium): Water resistant. Use for cutting boards, outdoor furniture under cover, anything with humidity exposure. Basically Original with insurance.
III (Ultimate): Waterproof. Extended open time. FDA approved for food contact. More expensive but necessary for outdoor projects and marine stuff.
Gorilla Wood Glue
Not the foaming polyurethane stuff – their PVA wood glue. Competes directly with Titebond II.
Slightly thicker consistency. Some people prefer this for vertical surfaces, others find it harder to spread on big panels. Water resistant. Longer open time (~10 min) which helps on complex assemblies.
Strength is basically identical to Titebond when you clamp properly. Pick whichever you like better.
Elmer’s Carpenter’s
Cheaper. Fine for light-duty stuff and craft projects. Their Max version is water resistant and works well enough for hobbyist work.
I won’t use it on furniture I’m selling, but for shop jigs and things that just need to hold together? Works fine.
What Actually Matters
Here’s the secret: technique matters more than brand. A properly clamped joint with Elmer’s is stronger than a sloppy Titebond III joint every time.
Clamping: 30 min minimum, 24 hours for full cure. Don’t rush it.
Temperature: Stay above 50°F or nothing sets right.
Fit: PVA glue is terrible at filling gaps. If your joint has daylight showing, fix the joint – don’t just add more glue.
My Actual Recommendations
Keep Titebond Original around for most work. Get Titebond III for anything outdoor or food-contact. Use Elmer’s or cheap PVA for jigs and test pieces.
Don’t overthink it. They all work when you use them right.
