Sandpaper Grits and Selection Guide for Woodworking

Spent years buying random sandpaper. Finally figured out a system that works.

The Grits That Matter

80 – removing material. Old finish, shaping. Aggressive. Leaves deep scratches you’ll spend time removing.

120 – after power tools. Jointer marks, planer snipe. First step on rough lumber.

150 – general smoothing. Where I spend most of my time.

180 – pre-finish for paint. Good enough. Don’t go higher.

220 – pre-finish for stain or clear coat. Standard stopping point.

320+ – between finish coats. Rarely on bare wood.

Skip Grits, Cause Problems

Going 80 to 220 doesn’t save time. You just push the 80 scratches deeper. They show through finish.

Jump one grit at most. 80, 120, 150, 180, 220. Each step removes the previous scratches.

Types

Aluminum oxide is the standard. Works fine. What I use mostly.

Garnet cuts softer but burns out fast. Old school choice. Not worth seeking out.

Silicon carbide for wet sanding finishes. Grey stuff. Between coats.

Random Orbit vs Hand

Random orbit through 180. Hand sand with 220 in the direction of grain. This prevents swirl marks.

I skip hand sanding for paint grade work. Swirls don’t matter under primer.

Buying

Diablo or 3M. Store brand is hit or miss. Bad paper falls apart, clogs fast, wastes time.

Buy sheets for hand work. Discs for sanders. Rolls if you go through a lot of one grit.

David Chen

David Chen

Author & Expert

David Chen is a professional woodworker and furniture maker with over 15 years of experience in fine joinery and custom cabinetry. He trained under master craftsmen in traditional Japanese and European woodworking techniques and operates a small workshop in the Pacific Northwest. David holds certifications from the Furniture Society and regularly teaches woodworking classes at local community colleges. His work has been featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking.

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