Dowel joints are underrated. They’re strong, simple, and don’t require fancy tools. I use them all the time for frame construction and furniture.
Why Dowels Work
A properly fitted dowel adds significant mechanical strength to a joint. The dowel resists shear forces that would pull a butt joint apart. Combined with glue surface area, you get a joint that rivals mortise and tenon in many applications.
The Challenge
Alignment. The holes in both pieces must line up precisely, or the joint won’t close or will be crooked. This is the skill to develop.
Methods for Alignment
Dowel centers: Insert metal points into drilled holes, press the mating piece against them, and the points mark drilling locations. Simple and cheap.
Doweling jig: Guides the drill at a precise angle. Self-centering jigs position themselves automatically. More investment but more reliable.
Floating tenon: Cut matching mortises in both pieces, insert a loose tenon. This is essentially what Festool’s Domino does, and you can approximate it with a router.
Proper Drilling
Use a brad-point bit – they center better than twist bits. Drill to consistent depth using a depth stop or tape on the bit. Perpendicular holes are critical – any angle means misalignment.
Dowel Sizing
Standard dowels are 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, and 1/2″. Use the largest that fits your stock. Fluted or spiral-grooved dowels allow glue to escape and create better bonds than smooth dowels.
Assembly
Put glue in the holes and on the dowel. Don’t overdo it – excess glue can hydraulically prevent the joint from closing. Insert dowels, clamp, check for square. Done.
