Wood Drill Bits: Types and Uses for Different Materials

Wood Drill Bits — A No-Nonsense Guide

As someone who’s drilled thousands of holes in every species from balsa to white oak, I learned everything there is to know about which bit to grab for which job. Today, I will share it all with you. Because drill bit selection has gotten complicated with all the coatings and specialty options flying around, and most of the packaging doesn’t explain things clearly.

The Bits You’ll Actually Use

There are a bunch of wood bit types, but these four cover 95% of what you’ll encounter:

• Spade Bits: Flat with a sharp point. These rip holes out fast and aren’t fussy about precision. Perfect for rough work — running wires through studs, boring drain holes, anything where speed matters more than a clean edge. I keep a set in my framing bag.
• Auger Bits: That spiral design pulls itself into the wood, so they’re great for deep, clean holes. They need either a brace or a powerful drill to drive them effectively. I use these for timber framing and any hole deeper than an inch or two.
• Forstner Bits: These cut flat-bottomed holes with clean edges and minimal tearout. They’re the go-to for cabinetry and furniture work. Concealed hinges, overlapping holes, partial-depth bores — Forstner bits handle all of it beautifully. Probably should have led with these, honestly, because they’re the bit I reach for most.
• Brad Point Bits: Similar to regular twist bits but with a center point that prevents wandering when you start drilling. Essential for furniture work where a hole needs to land exactly where you marked it. The clean entry they produce means less cleanup on visible surfaces.

What They’re Made Of

High-speed steel (HSS) is the standard. Affordable, holds an edge reasonably well, handles most woods without issue. Carbide-tipped bits cost more but resist heat and wear much better — they’re worth the investment if you’re drilling into hard maple or other dense species regularly.

Titanium coatings reduce friction and extend life, but they’re a one-time benefit. Once the coating wears through, you’ve got a regular HSS bit underneath. Not a bad option, just know what you’re getting.

Choosing the Right Bit

Match the bit to the job. Soft woods are forgiving — most bits work fine. Hardwoods demand sharper tips and better durability, so lean toward carbide. For precision work like joinery or inlays, brad point or Forstner bits give you the accuracy you need.

Think about hole diameter and depth before you start. Each bit type cuts differently, and the wrong choice shows up as rough edges, blowout on the back side, or holes that aren’t where you wanted them. That’s what makes bit selection endearing to us detail-oriented woodworkers — the right bit for the right job gives you clean results every time.

Keeping Them Sharp

Clean your bits after use. Wood pitch and debris dull cutting edges faster than actual wear. I wipe mine down with a rag and a bit of mineral spirits when they start looking gunky.

Sharpening matters. Each bit type has its own technique — auger bits need special files, while spade bits can often be touched up with a regular file by hand. Forstner bits are trickier to sharpen and may be worth sending out to a professional sharpening service.

Store them in a case, organized by type and size, in a dry spot. Loose bits banging around in a drawer get damaged and rusty. Neither condition helps your work.

Safety Notes

Wear eye protection. Always. Secure the workpiece before drilling — a spinning bit in wood that’s not clamped is an accident waiting to happen. A drill press gives you control and precision that freehand drilling can’t match for certain jobs.

Pay attention to grain direction. Drilling with or across the grain produces different results, and going the wrong way can split the wood unexpectedly.

Tips From the Bench

• Always test on scrap first, especially with an unfamiliar species.
• Use slower speeds for large diameter bits. Fast and big equals burned wood.
• Apply steady, even pressure. Forcing it breaks bits and damages workpieces.
• Drill pilot holes for screws using a bit slightly smaller than the screw shank. It prevents splitting and the screw holds better.

Understanding your drill bits is one of those foundational skills that pays off on every single project. Take the time to learn what each type does best, keep them maintained, and your holes will be cleaner, more accurate, and less frustrating to produce.