I’ve got four different wood glues on my shelf right now. Each does something the others don’t. Here’s when I reach for what.
Yellow Glue (PVA)
Titebond Original or similar. This is my daily driver. Strong bond, reasonable working time, cleans up with water while wet. For 90% of indoor furniture work, this is all you need.
Titebond II is water-resistant – good for cutting boards and things that’ll get occasional moisture. Titebond III is waterproof, rated for outdoor use. Each step up costs more but adds durability.
Polyurethane Glue
Gorilla Glue original is the common one. Foams as it cures, fills gaps, bonds well to dissimilar materials. Waterproof.
I use it for outdoor projects and when I’m gluing end grain where regular PVA doesn’t penetrate well. Downsides: messy expansion, requires moisture to cure, harder to clean up.
Epoxy
Two-part system – resin and hardener. Strongest bond available, fills gaps, waterproof. Can bond wood to metal, plastic, anything.
Expensive, messy, and has a limited working time once mixed. I save it for repairs where nothing else will work or structural joints that need extreme strength.
CA Glue (Super Glue)
Sets in seconds. Great for quick fixes, small crack repairs, or tacking pieces before clamping with regular glue. Thin CA wicks into cracks. Thick CA fills small gaps.
Not for structural joints – too brittle. But invaluable for workshop shortcuts.
Hide Glue
Traditional stuff, still used for furniture restoration and instruments. Reversible with heat and moisture. I don’t use it often, but when you need a repair that can be undone later, it’s the only choice.
Application Tips
Apply to both surfaces for maximum strength. Spread thin and even – excess squeezes out. Clamp firmly but not so hard you squeeze all the glue out of the joint.
Clean up squeeze-out while wet. Dried glue won’t take stain and shows under finish.
