Pocket holes get a bad rap from “real woodworkers.” Whatever. They’re fast, strong enough for most projects, and hidden from the outside. I use them constantly.
What They’re Good For
Face frames on cabinets. That’s the classic use case. Pull the joint tight, drill a few screws, done in seconds. Glue optional.
Also great for: furniture aprons, drawer boxes, quick jigs, shop furniture. Anything where you need strong, fast joints that won’t be seen.
The Jig Setup
Kreg is the standard. Set the depth for your material thickness – there’s a scale on the collar. Wrong depth = screws popping through or not grabbing.
Clamp the piece solid. These jigs want to walk. Ask me how I know.
Screw Selection
Hardwood screws for hardwood, regular screws for softwood and plywood. Length matches material thickness – the charts aren’t just suggestions.
Fine thread for hardwood, coarse thread for soft. Wrong thread type and the joint won’t pull tight.
Where They Don’t Belong
Tabletops. Wood movement will crack the joint or warp the top. Use proper breadboard ends or tabletop fasteners.
Fine furniture where joints are part of the aesthetic. Pocket holes are utilitarian, not beautiful. Nobody wants to see filled plug holes on a nice piece.
Strength Reality Check
Plenty strong for face grain to face grain. Weaker in end grain but still functional. Add glue if you’re worried. For furniture that’s going to be moved around, they hold up fine.
