Used the same blade for everything my first year woodworking. Wondered why my cuts looked terrible. Turns out blade selection actually matters. Who knew.
The Basic Categories
Rip blades – fewer teeth, cut along the grain. Fast but rough. 24-30 teeth typically.
Crosscut blades – more teeth, cut across grain. Smoother but slower. 60-80 teeth.
Combo blades – compromise between both. What most people should start with. 40-50 teeth does most things acceptably.
What I Actually Use
Combo blade stays on my saw 90% of the time. Freud Diablo 50-tooth. About $40. Handles plywood, crosscuts, ripping 2x material. Good enough for most projects.
I swap to a dedicated crosscut blade for furniture pieces where edge quality matters. The difference is noticeable on hardwoods.
Tooth Count Isn’t Everything
Hook angle matters too. Positive hook pulls wood into the blade – good for ripping. Negative hook pushes away – safer for crosscutting and sheet goods.
Kerf width affects cut quality and saw power requirements. Thin kerf blades need less motor power but can flex on thick cuts.
When to Replace
Burn marks on wood = dull blade. Also if you’re pushing harder than normal or the saw sounds strained.
Cheap blades can be sharpened once or twice. Premium blades are worth sharpening multiple times – often cheaper than buying new.
Don’t Overthink It
Get a decent combo blade. Add a quality crosscut blade later. That covers 95% of hobbyist needs. The rest is fine-tuning that only matters for specific situations.
