Miter Saws: What You Actually Need to Know
As someone who’s used miter saws on everything from basement trim to deck framing, I learned everything there is to know about which features matter and which are marketing fluff. Today, I will share it all with you. Because miter saw shopping has gotten complicated with all the options and features flying around.
Types of Miter Saws
Standard miter saw: Blade pivots left and right for miter cuts on the flat plane. Simple, affordable, and honestly sufficient for a lot of work. Limited to narrower stock, but if you’re mostly cutting trim, it does the job.
Compound miter saw: Also tilts for bevel cuts through the thickness. Single bevel tilts one direction; dual bevel tilts both ways. The dual bevel saves real time on crown molding and complex angles because you’re not flipping the workpiece constantly.
Sliding compound miter saw: Rails let the blade travel forward and back, cutting wider boards. More capability, bigger footprint, higher price. But if you need to crosscut a 12-inch board, nothing else does it cleanly.
Blade Size — It Matters More Than You’d Think
10-inch: Most common and what I’d recommend starting with. Handles most trim and light framing. Good balance of capability and portability.
12-inch: Cuts wider and deeper. Better for framing work or regularly cutting wider boards. Heavier and pricier though.
7-1/4 inch: Compact and easy to haul around. Limited capacity but perfect for job sites where you’re only cutting trim all day.
What to Look For
Positive stops: Detents at common angles — 0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45 degrees. Makes setting up common cuts fast without fiddling with the scale. My DeWalt snaps into these angles solidly, which I appreciate.
Fence quality: Tall fences support crown molding and tall stock. It needs to be flat and rigid. A wobbly fence makes every cut suspect. Probably should have led with this point, honestly — the fence matters more than most people realize.
Dust collection: Miter saws are dust cannons. Every brand claims good dust collection. Most of them are lying. Look for reviews that specifically mention this, and plan on still having a mess.
Laser or LED guides: Shows where the cut will land. Helpful for rough work but don’t rely on it for precision — it’s an approximation, not a guarantee. I use mine as a sanity check, not a measurement tool.
Brands I’ve Used
DeWalt: Reliable, parts available everywhere, solid support. The DWS779 is a popular sliding model for good reason.
Makita: Smooth, precise cuts. Well-built machines. The LS1019L is excellent if you can stomach the price.
Bosch: Their Glide system on sliding models saves space behind the saw — great for wall-mounted stations where rails would hit the wall.
Metabo HPT (formerly Hitachi): Solid value. Does everything well without costing a fortune. That’s what makes them endearing to us budget-conscious woodworkers.
Safety Reminders
Wait for the blade to completely stop before raising it. Keep your hands well clear of the cut line. Wear safety glasses — these saws throw debris with enthusiasm. Clamp small pieces instead of holding them by hand. Never try to freehand cut stock that could twist or kick.
The Real Decision
Do you need a sliding model? If you’re regularly cutting anything wider than 6 inches, yes. Otherwise, a non-sliding compound miter saw saves you money and bench space while handling most trim work perfectly fine. Start there and upgrade later if your projects demand it.
