Bandsaw Blade Selection

Owned a 14″ bandsaw for six years. Bought maybe 20 different blades before figuring out what actually works for what.

Width Matters

Wide blades (1/2″ and up) for straight cuts. They track in a line, resist wandering. Resawing veneer? Wide blade, no question.

Narrow blades (1/4″ and under) for curves. Tighter curves need skinnier blades. 1/8″ blade does maybe 1″ radius turns. Physics doesn’t negotiate.

Tooth Patterns

Skip tooth for thick stuff. Big gullets clear sawdust fast. Hook tooth is aggressive – cuts quick but rougher. Regular tooth for fine work, slower but smoother.

Variable pitch reduces vibration and that annoying harmonic whine. Worth the extra few bucks.

TPI – Teeth Per Inch

More teeth = smoother cut but slower. Fewer teeth = faster but rougher. For general woodworking, 3-4 TPI on thick stock, 6-8 TPI on thinner stuff.

Rule of thumb: at least 3 teeth in the material at all times. Cutting 1″ stock? Need at least 3 TPI.

Tension and Tracking

Loose blades wander. But over-tensioned blades snap. Manufacturer specs are starting points – adjust until the blade tracks straight without excessive tension.

If the blade flutters in the cut, tighten it. If it’s tracking fine and cutting straight, leave it alone.

What I Keep Stocked

1/2″ 3TPI for resawing. 1/4″ 6TPI for general curved work. 1/8″ for really tight curves. That covers 90% of what I do.

David Chen

David Chen

Author & Expert

David Chen is a professional woodworker and furniture maker with over 15 years of experience in fine joinery and custom cabinetry. He trained under master craftsmen in traditional Japanese and European woodworking techniques and operates a small workshop in the Pacific Northwest. David holds certifications from the Furniture Society and regularly teaches woodworking classes at local community colleges. His work has been featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking.

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