You've got to have some stock to start with. Here's a pile that I've
rough sized. Some are non expensive pieces to make prototypes. I've got pieces for the main body as well as trim pieces. The main
body pieces will be cut to length dependant on what trim rings you will insert.
The overall length you want to end up with is about 14". Mark the
main body pieces as you cut them so that you can orient the grain as it was in
the original piece.
The next step is to mark the centers of each piece and
drill a hole the size of the mandrel that you will be using. The closer to exact
center the better. When drilling the hole it's very important that you don't drift off to one side
or the other. On trim pieces it's no big deal, but on the body pieces it's
essential. Now, mount them on the mandrel gluing between each layer. Make sure
to align the main body pieces in the order you marked them when you cut them. In
this picture I've used Gorilla Glue. I have also used Rod Bond and Tight
Bond exterior with equal results. Just make sure the glue is for exterior
use. Don't get in a hurry here, let the glue cure as long as it takes. If
you hurry this step, you'll probably just have to repeat it after the glue joint
lets loose.
It helps to square the blank up before you go any further. Just be careful
to keep the mandrel centered. Also be careful not to get the mandrel into
the blade, or your hands.
I've
moved the fence to the left of the blade and tilted it to 45. This will
allow me to knock off the corners. It's something that doesn't have to be done,
but it saves time at the lathe. Again, be careful to keep the mandrel and
your hands away from the blade.
Mount
it up in your lathe and start turning. You want to end up with it diameter
of 1 1/8" for the IPS grip. Get it close but leave some for sanding.
Here
we've got it roughed out slightly more that final size. I start sanding
with a 36 grit paper held flat against a board to take out any high or low
spots. From there move to 60 grit, again with the backer board. Finish
sanding can be done with successively finer grits without the backer board.
At this stage I'll take it down to 150 grit.
Make
your final cuts with your gouges. You have to measure for length and
diameter here very often to get the final fit you want. You can't go to
the next steps, find out it's not right, and come back to the lathe. Take
your time and measure often!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Slightly big and you can hand
file and sand (pain in the you know what), slightly small - start over. You've
invested way to much time in getting to this point to start over, believe me, I
did it a time or two on my first attempts. Again, Take your time and measure
often!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You
will end up with 2 or 3 piece here. I've got 3 because I'm making a recess
to house some weight to balance the rod. I don't cut them off on the lathe
because it dulls the chisels and mars the mandrels.
We're
now ready to counter bore the holes. I've used spade bits in the past, but
after busting apart a couple of handles, I've gone to high quality forstner bits. I tried
the cheapo's. Spend the money and get some good ones. Slowly and carefully bore
these holes. Too fast and your bit will heat up and you ruin the bit. Go to deep
and you'll end up with a structural void which can lead to a breakage in the
final product. It has to fit!! Both the diameter of the hole and the
depth.
The fore grip can present a problem to counter bore. The best success I've
had is simple, I tried complex ones first, put a dowel in to line it up and
provide some resistance to spin.
Keeping
that fore grip from spinning can be a challenge. Here I've got a couple of
extra squeeze block that aren't attached to the main jig to help. I've also just
used a couple of flat blade screw drivers, but they leave dents that you'll have
to sand out later.
To
cut the top out of the fore grip, and to guide the final sanding, I made another
jig. It's simply a 2X4, gouged out to accept the finished blank with the profile
of the cut out exposed. To accept the taper, I mixed up some body putty and
imbedded my pattern in it. Works great.
Now
that you have the majority of the waste cut away it's time to do the final
fitting. GO SLOW AND CHECK THIS OFTEN!!! If you take to much off here
you're going to be starting over, understand? Creep up on the final fit.
You have to get both length and depth just right.
That was easy! We're done. Have patience, don't hurry, don't think
of this as a few hour project. Total work time for a solid wood grip can run you
3-4 hrs. easy after you've built some jigs and done a couple of them. You'll
spend most of your time in aligning the boring operations and the final fitting of
the seat with the drum sander. Add a one or two piece inlay, and with
getting those properly sized you'll add another 1-2 hrs. Now, start doing
something like the Abraham in the gallery, with 87 individual pieces to cut and
glue, you're adding just a little more time. It's fun, it's rewarding, and
you can do it!! Contact me as you get going with the project so I can help
you through the rough spots and save you some time.
Rodmaker, fishing, fishing rods, grips, wood, wood
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net, net, custom, fly rods, poles, inlay, wood inlay,
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